Solar Wiring Diagram

I have created a small solar generator. It consists of 3 12v DC deep cycle batteries (90ah each), a 7 amp, 12 v charge controller and 3 15 watt solar panels.

Here are a few things to note. Amp hours denote the amps you can discharge a battery over 20 hours, before you have to charge it. To figure out this out, you divide the amp hours by 20. For instance, a 100 amp hour battery can discharge 5 amps for 20 hours prior to requiring a recharge (20 * 5 = 100). In my case, I have 90ah batteries, so it would be 4.5 amps for 20 hrs. The other thing to remember is, if batteries are in parrallel (negative to negative and positive to positive as shown in diagram) then the amp hours are additive and voltage is constant (12 v, not 36). So in my case, with 3 90ah batteries, I have 270amp hours @ 12v dc, available or 13.5 amps for 20 hours. Unfortunately, I only replace 45 watts of power, so I will probably run out at some point as I need a larger charging system (depending on what I draw off). Since this is only used for a few days a month, this should be fine however. It cost me $500.

A couple points. Since I have a 3000 watt invertor (it can draw up to 30 amps), it is important that the wires used between the batteries themselves, as well as between the batteries and the inverter, are large. In my case I use 2 gauge to the invertor and 00 between the batteries. This will eliminate and voltage sag and ensure that my invertor can function with a large draw. I can successfully start and run a full size normal refridgerator with this system, as well as run a 2hp Bostich air compressor to over 120psi. This will be the system I take to and from Taos, until I have my cabin built. Once built, this system will stay there and be the power system for the cabin.

Taos Here We Come

Well we are heading back out to Taos the week after/of labor day. We will be taking some more photos, cutting the driveway into the property, leveling off a flat spot on the west side of the driveway for a shed/cabin and maybe, digging the holes for the rubble foundation. If I can get the foundation dug, I will be planning to fill with gravel. I have spoken to other contractors and builders in the area and due to the dryness of the climate, I won't need a drain tile in the bottom of the trech. Then, next year, I can place the cinder block grade beam and start setting adobes.

The cabin will be 8x12 on the inside, with the 8' side facing south and the 12' side facing east. The 8' side will have large windows to let the heat / sun in for passive solar heat. We will most likely use an earthen floor. I am still unsure on whether I will heat this via radiant floor heat or whether I will remove that for this small cabin, and simply heat with a ventless propane heater. I guess I have until next year to figure that out.

The other major item needing done with this trip, is for us to determine where true-south really is in comparison to the property lines. This will allow me to orient the buildings on the plot drawings.

Stay tuned.

What Type Of Home?

Well I haven't posted in a while as I have been digging in to learn more. I have been following Alyssa's progress (my neighbor about 1/2 mile away) and have seen where she is having some trouble with wall plumb as well as squareness of door and window bucks. Since she has been working on this non-stop since May, it is apparent as well that there is a LOT of labor and time in building an earthbag home, which is something I don't have. Since I can't build it all at once, I need to find a method that will allow me to build, let it set if I need to, and come back and finish. I also want to start small and learn. Based on Alyssa's experience, the amount of labor and time required to build earthbag and the fact that I can't leave it (the bags will rot), I am not going to use earthbag design.

To that point, I am going to use earth. Did you you that a home made of 12" or thicker earthen walls will only fluctuate +/- 3 degrees off of the median tempature of the day? So in Taos, where it's 90 during the day and 60 at night, our house will sit at a comfortable 72 to 78 degress without doing anything.

Compressed earth was my next selection, but with this, I still need to either make the block or buy it. To make it I need to have a machine or rent one. I can buy one from $12k, and I don't know where I can rent one. There are folks who will come onsite and use my earth, but they want $1.85 / block to do this. So, if I want to do it I need capital for the machine, time to test the earthen mixture and time to make the blocks. That won't happen, not now anyway. If I buy stabilized blocks they are stabilized with portland which means that it will feel as though I am working with cinder block walls, even though their insulative properties will be of earth. In speaking with folks who have used these, this is tough, dusty and demanding. CEBs, at this point since I don't live in Taos to work on this full time, are out too.

So finally, Adobe. I can buy stabilized adobe blocks (weather proof) which are fairly easy to cut and size (compared to CEB) and have them delivered for $2/block. This saves me the time of making them, figuring out the earth mixture etc. Now I only need to make the mortar. The blocks can be delivered anytime and I can use them when I am ready. This will be my choice.

To make this reasonable, I will be building in 3 phases. 1) a cabin/tool shed combo. This will be a building that is 8x12 and will be about half the size of the next building. This will have water and heat, rubble foundation etc. I will design this in miniture really to make sure I learn as I go. It will have parapets on 3 sides and a sloped metal roof to gather water. We will have an outdoor shower and bath. 2) A guest house twice the size but of the same basic design as the shed. 3) The house. The design is still in question. I will post the layout on the 10 acres in an upcoming post.